It is a wine shop that got ambitious, a dining room decorated like a yard sale, and pasta good enough to make you forgive the parking structure.
Cucina enoteca sits at the Irvine Spectrum, right in the thick of it, which means you will hunt for a parking spot and walk past the giant Ferris wheel to get to dinner. This is a Tracy Borkum restaurant, part of her Urban Kitchen Group, and the woman clearly believes a room should have as much going on as the plate. Mismatched chairs, shelves of bottles, plants, warm light, a little maximalist.
The reason to come is the pasta, made in-house. The short rib pappardelle is the one people describe with their eyes closed. There is a wood-fired pizza program, a meatball with a small fan club, and grilled octopus that shows up tender instead of rubbery.
The short rib pappardelle is the one people describe with their eyes closed.
We ordered a salad we did not expect to remember and remembered it anyway: golden beets over beet hummus with goat cheese, toasted hazelnuts and a few blueberries hiding in there for fun. There is a whipped green dip, cool and garlicky, that arrives with warm flatbread and disappears faster than it should. And a crispy-skin fish over charred cabbage with a caper relish that we would order again tomorrow, no notes.
Yes, it is at the Spectrum, yes you will hunt for parking, and no, it is not cheap. Order a pasta, the beet salad, and a glass off the wall of wine, and you will leave happy and slightly over budget, which is the correct outcome.
The details
- Where
- 532 Spectrum Center Dr, Irvine (Irvine Spectrum)
- Kitchen
- California-Italian, plus a working wine shop
- Website
- urbankitchengroup.com
- Go for
- Short rib pappardelle, the golden beet salad, a wood-fired pizza
Sources and further reading: Urban Kitchen Group (ownership and menus), Irvine Spectrum Center. Photography by Tide & Canyon.
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